Ko is NOT a Momofuku...
It’s far better than any other Momofukus combined. I can write a ton of dislikes about the other momofuku eats, but it’s not the mission of Table Talk. I want to spend time praising, worshiping, and celebrating restaurants that are worthwhile!
Ko is our kind of restaurant:
A restaurant that’s built around kitchen: till now I’m yet to find one with open kitchen that disappoints (Dos Palillos, Kamo, Koy Shunka, chambre separee all excel)
A restaurant that’s defined by no genre, that utilises a vast variety of ingredients from all over this amazing world and conquers them with such mastery that it feels like these ingredients come from the chef’s backyard: that salinity of Kombu combined with sweet rice is heavenly-made; many restaurants are lackluster, not because they are less daring or un-experimental, they fail because they use ingredients they lack fundamental understanding and they make exotic ingredients awkwardly stand out instead of harmoniously fitting in.
A restaurant that’s technically impeccable: this thin piece of beef is the best ever boeuf au poivre I’ve ever tasted.
A restaurant that’s wildly imaginative: razor clam+pinapple+basil, what? Why? But it worked, unbelievably but totally.
