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Merci Monsieur Paul


Royale de cresson au caviar

Restaurant Paul Bocuse is not part of the plan. We feared it may be too camp, too old fashioned, too superfluous (oh yes the 'nouvelle cuisine', but that was 1970s!) . It was while we were eating lunching in the minimalist Septime, almost at completely opposite spectrum in style, Felice played around this idea and after checking with our French waiter who exclaimed you have to be there at least once! Felice booked and paid restaurant in no time.

I was still doubtful. Even knowing how heavy-weight of Mr. Paul in French cuisine, it’s still hard to imagine how the restaurant now continues to run without him and how even the name of it seemed to be from another era.

Prior to our dinner, Felice urged me to order menu ‘Paul Bocuse’ which consists of the old master’s all signature dishes. ‘Oh no’ I protested as usual, just ‘leave me alone’. I just want one dish!

Never mind my determination. Once we arrived in the restaurants, being warmly welcomed by the maitre, washed down 2 champagnes, being attended by 5-6 waiters at your table, it’s kinda difficult not to opt for the full-blown classic menu.

And it was true the décor slightly over the top, lights too bright, crème fraiche est trop, yet there’s also a genuine sense of attending a feast of life-time and of great hospitality. Whatever our requests and questions, they get answered and attended.

It was really from another era, where restaurant personnel's stayed at one place for life, where menu is hardly touched, where portion is abundant, where chef is the chef and clients are the king (despite that Paul Bocuse had brought the profession of chef to popularity)

It was after that night I started to notice how this man had permeated every bits of Lyon. Everywhere you go, it was him! The smiling statue in the tourist info centre, the buzzing market and cooking schools named after him and the giant black & white mural. It was him, looking thoughtful upon us.

So merci monsieur Paul for a type of cuisine that was nouvelle then, but feels pretty old-school now; for the joy of eating that never passes la moda.

The famous Bresse chicken in veal bladder

No dinner is complete without a trip in kitchen

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